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| After the fuse block burnt up and almost caused a fire, all of the wires were taken out front to back and replaced. I used a kit made by Painless, which was extremely helpful (Part Number: PW20122). Replacing all of your wiring is already a daunting task and this kit makes things much easier! First of all, all of the wires a labeled plus color coded, so you know exactly which wire is what when wiring everything back up. This kit also includes all of the connectors from headlights to taillights, to everything in between. The fuse block uses the newer minifuses instead of the old glass tube ones, which is also very handy. Here is a picture of the kit that I bought: Since I was going all out, I ran a 4/0 welding cable from the solenoid switch through the frame, under the sill plate on the passenger's side, and through the trunk. It was hard to find battery terminals for 4/0 cable! Found some locally from a very helpful company named American Alternator and Battery. They even crimped them onto the cables for me. I was also worried about battery acid/corrosion in my trunk, so I put a couple of glass-lined batteries from them American Alternator and Battery as well (they are definitely not cheap!). You can even mount these upside down or drill into them without any leakage. They were also a perfect/snug fit to the battery trays. Bolts were welded in facing upward to be studs for mounting the battery trays. The trunk area has very thin metal, so take precaution not to burn through. It looks very clean though, because I just punched the studs up through trunk mat. 5x separate cables needed to be prepared. 2x for each battery to be grounded separately. 1x for joining the positive terminals on each of the batteries. 1x that came from the solenoid switch routed to the back. 1x to tie together the 2x individual battery grounds. Each battery is 800 CCA, so in parallel I have 1600 CCA! However, the 4/0 can definitely handle it :) Pictures of the everything installed: |
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